Before you start training, you need to decide what method of training you will use. Hello Bully strongly recommends Positive Reinforcement
Training for all dogs - especially Pit Bulls.
But what is Positive Reinforcement Training and why is it so important that we use these methods with Pit Bulls?
Some people are under the impression that Positive Reinforcement Training is all hearts and flowers and showering dogs with treats. The
truth is that Positive Reinforcement Training is based on the science and learning theory. Using Operant Conditioning, dogs will repeat
behaviors that are reinforced. In a nutshell, here’s how it works:
Positive Reinforcement (Treats, Praise, Play, Attention and Affection) = Repeated Behavior
No Positive Reinforcement (Absence of Treats, Praise, Play, Attention and Affection) = No Behavior
What’s missing from this equation is punishment. Traditional dog training is rooted in military training. Even today, many trainers use
aversive methods that only teach dogs what NOT to do (pulling on the leash = pain or discomfort) instead of teaching them what TO do
(walk nicely and we get to explore! Hooray!) While traditional methods may seem to work, they often backfire, causing fear, anxiety and
aggression. Positive training can't backfire because it’s not a loaded weapon. For example, say you are teaching your dog not to pull on the
leash by using a choke or prong collar. The unpleasant stimulus just happens to intermingle with a small child walking down the street. You
may end up with a dog who has anxiety associated with small children, and an owner who cannot figure out why. Pretty scary stuff.
Too often, so-called professional trainers immediately reach for a choke or prong collar in an attempt to control issues like leash pulling.
Using chokes and prongs on a Pit Bull is not only cruel, it is ineffective. Pit Bulls have been bred to withstand great discomfort without
changing their course. Attempts to get the message across to a Pit Bull via physical correction will usually result in physical injury to the dog
before a change in behavior. While it is true that you can achieve the appearance of control by using aversive methods, what you really
create by using aversives is a ticking time bomb.
With punishment or aversive based training, you also run the risk of damaging your relationship with your dog. We have seen dogs who will
literally just shut down because they can no longer tolerate the punishments.
Again, the best way to work a Pit Bull is to reward desirable behaviors and ignore or interrupt undesirable behaviors. Remove rewards when
the animal behaves in an undesirable way and do not use physical punishment of any kind.
Training for all dogs - especially Pit Bulls.
But what is Positive Reinforcement Training and why is it so important that we use these methods with Pit Bulls?
Some people are under the impression that Positive Reinforcement Training is all hearts and flowers and showering dogs with treats. The
truth is that Positive Reinforcement Training is based on the science and learning theory. Using Operant Conditioning, dogs will repeat
behaviors that are reinforced. In a nutshell, here’s how it works:
Positive Reinforcement (Treats, Praise, Play, Attention and Affection) = Repeated Behavior
No Positive Reinforcement (Absence of Treats, Praise, Play, Attention and Affection) = No Behavior
What’s missing from this equation is punishment. Traditional dog training is rooted in military training. Even today, many trainers use
aversive methods that only teach dogs what NOT to do (pulling on the leash = pain or discomfort) instead of teaching them what TO do
(walk nicely and we get to explore! Hooray!) While traditional methods may seem to work, they often backfire, causing fear, anxiety and
aggression. Positive training can't backfire because it’s not a loaded weapon. For example, say you are teaching your dog not to pull on the
leash by using a choke or prong collar. The unpleasant stimulus just happens to intermingle with a small child walking down the street. You
may end up with a dog who has anxiety associated with small children, and an owner who cannot figure out why. Pretty scary stuff.
Too often, so-called professional trainers immediately reach for a choke or prong collar in an attempt to control issues like leash pulling.
Using chokes and prongs on a Pit Bull is not only cruel, it is ineffective. Pit Bulls have been bred to withstand great discomfort without
changing their course. Attempts to get the message across to a Pit Bull via physical correction will usually result in physical injury to the dog
before a change in behavior. While it is true that you can achieve the appearance of control by using aversive methods, what you really
create by using aversives is a ticking time bomb.
With punishment or aversive based training, you also run the risk of damaging your relationship with your dog. We have seen dogs who will
literally just shut down because they can no longer tolerate the punishments.
Again, the best way to work a Pit Bull is to reward desirable behaviors and ignore or interrupt undesirable behaviors. Remove rewards when
the animal behaves in an undesirable way and do not use physical punishment of any kind.
Our dogs, Meiko and Mizuki, have no idea what a “crate” is. In our house it’s called “Boxy.” You can call it whatever you want – but you should
decide on a word before you get started. That’s the easiest part. Crate training is not difficult if you do it right. You will need a few simple
things:
The Crate. You dog should be able to stand up comfortably and turn around. With puppies, be sure that the crate is not too big, as this may
tempt them to potty at one end and sleep at the other.
The Comfort. You can spend a fortune on bedding for your dog’s crate. A small blanket or thick towel is just as good. Keep an eye on
puppies to be sure they don’t eat the bedding.
The Toy. An indestructible toy to chew on. If your puppy is teething, this is a must. It's also nice for all dogs to have something to keep them
from getting bored.
The Treat. Use a portion of your dog’s kibble and stuff a Kong toy for crate time. You can get creative and add yogurt or a little broth and
freeze it for a longer lasting treat.
Patience. Your dog may test it, so be prepared.
Day One
Choose a central area in the house to place the crate. Your dog will want to be near you, he won’t want to be in the crate if it’s in an area
where you are not. Once you have the crate set up with the bedding, allow your dog to explore. If he goes in right away, celebrate like he’s
just discovered a new world! If he seems nervous, practice some sits near the crate and then toss some treats into the crate. Don’t rush
him, he will find his way in. Do this periodically throughout the day.
If your dog is noticeably tired you can coax him into the crate and sit nearby while he falls asleep. Do not shut the door. Be sure to praise him
anytime he wanders in.
Feed your dog inside the crate. You want to establish that the crate is where good things happen. Use a Kong or other durable food puzzle
toy. This keeps him happy and occupied, burns energy and is great for teething pups. While he is working on his Kong, close the crate door
(you don’t have to latch it,) and be sure that you open it up before he is finished eating.
Day two
Spend some time practicing your cue for entering the crate. We use “Boxy Time.” That way my husband and I can discuss our schedules
and use the word “crate” without reaction from our dogs.
Start with some tiny, high value, soft treats and let the games begin. Here is the sequence:
1. Toss treat into crate
2. Dog enters crate
3. Feed treats and give praise while introducing the cue “Good Boxy!” or “Nice Crate!”
Once your dog gets it, hold out on tossing the treat. He will be looking for more. Eventually he will realize that going into the crate will make
the treat appear. Play the game two or three times during the day. Also feed your dog in the crate and allow him to nap in the crate if he likes.
Day Three
Early in the day you will do a few practice runs. Use a treat that will require a moment to consume, such as a large biscuit. Toss the treat into
the crate and use the verbal cue. Close the crate door and remain in the room. Get up and walk into another room, wait a couple minutes
and return to the room where your dog is. Wait another moment or two before you open the crate door. This whole process should last
about 10 minutes. You will do this twice early in the day.
During the afternoon, you are going to repeat the process. This time you will be stretching the length of time to 20 minutes. You will also be
feeding him inside the crate. Try to keep him occupied while he is crated, so that he doesn’t start to get anxious. On the evening of day three,
have your dog spend an hour in the crate. If he’s fine, you may want to get started on the nighttime training.
The Coming Days and the First Night
When he’s ready – and it may or may not happen in 3 days – you will be crating him in your bedroom at night. If your dog is still a puppy, you
will need to set an alarm and take him outdoors to potty after 4 hours, he should be able to go back to sleep (hopefully you will too.)
It all seems so simple, right? Well it is, but there’s one thing you need to be prepared for. Eventually your dog or puppy is going to complain
about being in the crate. It usually comes in the form of whining or barking. When Meiko was a puppy she would turn up the drama as if we
were torturing her. The whining was awful, but it only lasted a few nights. We never caved in and took her out because of the whining. If you
do, you are setting yourself up. Your dog will learn that whining is the key to open that door. If you think your dog needs to go outdoors, wait
for a pause in the whining before you open the crate door.
A Few Tips...
If your dog has an accident in the crate, don’t make a big deal about it. Dogs don’t go potty indoors because they are mad at us or because
they want revenge. They do it because when you gotta go - you gotta go. Use a cleaner like Nature’s Miracle to break down the urine. It’s
also good to have a backup bedding set.
You should always treat the crate as your dogs “happiest place on earth.” A crate is like a den to a dog, and it can be their safe place. Never
use the crate for punishment. It will make for a rough road of using the crate in the future.
Keep in mind that you should limit the amount of time that puppies are crated. This is the time when you want your puppy to be socialized
with as many people and animals as possible. It’s fine to have him crated at night, but during the day you should follow these age
guidelines:
12-14 weeks About 1 to 3 hours
15-16 weeks About 3 to 4 hours
17-18 weeks No more than 6 hours
Ideally, no dog should be crated for more than 6 hours. Let’s face it though; millions of working Americans have dogs that are left home
during a normal workday. A good alternative is to either have someone give the dog a break mid-day or switch over to a gated area. Adult
dogs shouldn’t have a problem holding it for 8 hours. Make sure your dog gets walked for at least 20-30 minutes before you leave for work.
When you go, make your good-byes short and sweet (it’s no big deal, you’ll be back soon.) While on his own, your dog should have access
to the crate, toys and fresh water.
decide on a word before you get started. That’s the easiest part. Crate training is not difficult if you do it right. You will need a few simple
things:
The Crate. You dog should be able to stand up comfortably and turn around. With puppies, be sure that the crate is not too big, as this may
tempt them to potty at one end and sleep at the other.
The Comfort. You can spend a fortune on bedding for your dog’s crate. A small blanket or thick towel is just as good. Keep an eye on
puppies to be sure they don’t eat the bedding.
The Toy. An indestructible toy to chew on. If your puppy is teething, this is a must. It's also nice for all dogs to have something to keep them
from getting bored.
The Treat. Use a portion of your dog’s kibble and stuff a Kong toy for crate time. You can get creative and add yogurt or a little broth and
freeze it for a longer lasting treat.
Patience. Your dog may test it, so be prepared.
Day One
Choose a central area in the house to place the crate. Your dog will want to be near you, he won’t want to be in the crate if it’s in an area
where you are not. Once you have the crate set up with the bedding, allow your dog to explore. If he goes in right away, celebrate like he’s
just discovered a new world! If he seems nervous, practice some sits near the crate and then toss some treats into the crate. Don’t rush
him, he will find his way in. Do this periodically throughout the day.
If your dog is noticeably tired you can coax him into the crate and sit nearby while he falls asleep. Do not shut the door. Be sure to praise him
anytime he wanders in.
Feed your dog inside the crate. You want to establish that the crate is where good things happen. Use a Kong or other durable food puzzle
toy. This keeps him happy and occupied, burns energy and is great for teething pups. While he is working on his Kong, close the crate door
(you don’t have to latch it,) and be sure that you open it up before he is finished eating.
Day two
Spend some time practicing your cue for entering the crate. We use “Boxy Time.” That way my husband and I can discuss our schedules
and use the word “crate” without reaction from our dogs.
Start with some tiny, high value, soft treats and let the games begin. Here is the sequence:
1. Toss treat into crate
2. Dog enters crate
3. Feed treats and give praise while introducing the cue “Good Boxy!” or “Nice Crate!”
Once your dog gets it, hold out on tossing the treat. He will be looking for more. Eventually he will realize that going into the crate will make
the treat appear. Play the game two or three times during the day. Also feed your dog in the crate and allow him to nap in the crate if he likes.
Day Three
Early in the day you will do a few practice runs. Use a treat that will require a moment to consume, such as a large biscuit. Toss the treat into
the crate and use the verbal cue. Close the crate door and remain in the room. Get up and walk into another room, wait a couple minutes
and return to the room where your dog is. Wait another moment or two before you open the crate door. This whole process should last
about 10 minutes. You will do this twice early in the day.
During the afternoon, you are going to repeat the process. This time you will be stretching the length of time to 20 minutes. You will also be
feeding him inside the crate. Try to keep him occupied while he is crated, so that he doesn’t start to get anxious. On the evening of day three,
have your dog spend an hour in the crate. If he’s fine, you may want to get started on the nighttime training.
The Coming Days and the First Night
When he’s ready – and it may or may not happen in 3 days – you will be crating him in your bedroom at night. If your dog is still a puppy, you
will need to set an alarm and take him outdoors to potty after 4 hours, he should be able to go back to sleep (hopefully you will too.)
It all seems so simple, right? Well it is, but there’s one thing you need to be prepared for. Eventually your dog or puppy is going to complain
about being in the crate. It usually comes in the form of whining or barking. When Meiko was a puppy she would turn up the drama as if we
were torturing her. The whining was awful, but it only lasted a few nights. We never caved in and took her out because of the whining. If you
do, you are setting yourself up. Your dog will learn that whining is the key to open that door. If you think your dog needs to go outdoors, wait
for a pause in the whining before you open the crate door.
A Few Tips...
If your dog has an accident in the crate, don’t make a big deal about it. Dogs don’t go potty indoors because they are mad at us or because
they want revenge. They do it because when you gotta go - you gotta go. Use a cleaner like Nature’s Miracle to break down the urine. It’s
also good to have a backup bedding set.
You should always treat the crate as your dogs “happiest place on earth.” A crate is like a den to a dog, and it can be their safe place. Never
use the crate for punishment. It will make for a rough road of using the crate in the future.
Keep in mind that you should limit the amount of time that puppies are crated. This is the time when you want your puppy to be socialized
with as many people and animals as possible. It’s fine to have him crated at night, but during the day you should follow these age
guidelines:
12-14 weeks About 1 to 3 hours
15-16 weeks About 3 to 4 hours
17-18 weeks No more than 6 hours
Ideally, no dog should be crated for more than 6 hours. Let’s face it though; millions of working Americans have dogs that are left home
during a normal workday. A good alternative is to either have someone give the dog a break mid-day or switch over to a gated area. Adult
dogs shouldn’t have a problem holding it for 8 hours. Make sure your dog gets walked for at least 20-30 minutes before you leave for work.
When you go, make your good-byes short and sweet (it’s no big deal, you’ll be back soon.) While on his own, your dog should have access
to the crate, toys and fresh water.
Housetraining is not a difficult concept for your dog to learn. It’s as easy as establishing a schedule, purchasing a crate and finding the
proper place for your dog to potty.
Prepare before bringing your new friend home. Purchase a crate, bowls, food, toys, leash, and collar. Remember your new dog is going to
require lots of your time for training, walking, playing and cuddling! You’ll also need a healthy dose of patience. Your dog may test it, so be
prepared.
Adult Dogs
Get started as soon as you bring your new dog home. No point in creating bad habits. After the excitement of the car ride home, your dog
should feel the need to potty. This is a perfect time to find that place in your yard for waste elimination. Find your dog’s potty place and take
her there immediately. Give her a few minutes to sniff all the wonderful new scents before she settles enough to relieve herself. Remember
to praise her for going outside! Use verbal praise, treats and affection. Be sure that your dog knows that you are really happy about this
outdoor potty stuff!
When you take her outside again, take her to the same spot where she pottied as this may encourage a repeat performance. Over time this
will not be necessary as she will understand the goal of going potty outside.
Establish a feeding schedule. This is essential to housetraining! Dogs do best when fed twice a day, breakfast and dinner.
Breakfast: Allow your dog to potty first thing in the morning. Don’t forget to give yourself some extra time in the morning as you’ll need to walk
your dog no later than 20 minutes after feeding. Of course 20 minutes is just a guideline. If your dog seems to be looking at the door sooner
or circling and sniffing, make sure to get her outdoors pronto.
Dinner: Allow your dog to potty as soon as you get home. Then follow the same routine as the morning by allowing your dog to potty no later
than 20 minutes after feeding.
Puppies
Patience and a good enzymatic cleaner are the keys to housetraining a puppy. Keep in mind puppies have tiny bladders and there will be
accidents. You’re going to minimize the damage through crate training and frequent potty breaks.
You should be taking your puppy out upon awakening, after each feeding, play session, training session, introduction to a new person or
animal – basically any time the puppy has been active or gets excited. These activities can stimulate the physical urge to go.
If your puppy starts sniffing and circling, this is a flashing red light indicating she has to potty. Take her out immediately! When she does
potty, tell her how wonderful she is. When you take her outside again, take her to the same spot where she eliminated previously. This will
indicate to her where the toilet is and she’ll be more likely to use it again. In time this will not be necessary.
Paper Training
Just say NO! Paper training makes your overall goal of housetraining more difficult. Paper training establishes the inside of the house as
the dog’s toilet which is the opposite of what you are trying to accomplish. Also puppies may assume going near the papers is as good as
going on the papers.
Accidents
It’s your fault not hers! If you are following these guidelines, you shouldn't encounter too many accidents in the house. If you do, take your
puppy out more often. If you catch your puppy in the act, say nothing. Simply move her outside to finish. When she is done, praise her for
going outside. Never, ever punish your puppy by rubbing her nose in it, smacking her with newspapers, yelling, or slapping her. Punishment
results in dogs that become fearful of and possibly aggressive towards humans.
Other Helpful Tips
Crate Training: Please refer to the crate training protocol. Crates can be invaluable when it comes to housetraining. Not only will your dog be
less likely to potty in her crate, if she does it’s easy cleanup for you. No worries about furniture or carpeting serving as your dog’s toilet. With
time your dog may graduate to a baby-gated area or even the entire house.
If your dog has an accident in the crate or house, don’t make a big deal about it. Dogs don’t go potty indoors because they are mad at us or
because they want revenge. They do it because they needed to go. Use a cleaner like Nature’s Miracle to break down the urine.
Keep in mind that changes to a dog’s food, health, routine or emotional state can cause lapses in housetraining. If your dog has regressed,
first consult your veterinarian to rule out any physical problems. If there are no health issues, you will need to do some sleuthing to figure out
an emotional cause (moving to a new home, adding a new pet or person.)
Speutering your Pit will benefit your housetraining efforts. Male dogs begin to lift their leg and “mark” between four and nine months of age.
Not only will they mark outdoors (trees, shrubs, telephone poles) but could also mark in your house (chairs, lamps, beds.) Having your dog
neutered goes a long way in avoiding this unwanted behavior. Also neutering and spaying helps to prevent urinary tract infections that could
lead to frequent urination and accidents.
proper place for your dog to potty.
Prepare before bringing your new friend home. Purchase a crate, bowls, food, toys, leash, and collar. Remember your new dog is going to
require lots of your time for training, walking, playing and cuddling! You’ll also need a healthy dose of patience. Your dog may test it, so be
prepared.
Adult Dogs
Get started as soon as you bring your new dog home. No point in creating bad habits. After the excitement of the car ride home, your dog
should feel the need to potty. This is a perfect time to find that place in your yard for waste elimination. Find your dog’s potty place and take
her there immediately. Give her a few minutes to sniff all the wonderful new scents before she settles enough to relieve herself. Remember
to praise her for going outside! Use verbal praise, treats and affection. Be sure that your dog knows that you are really happy about this
outdoor potty stuff!
When you take her outside again, take her to the same spot where she pottied as this may encourage a repeat performance. Over time this
will not be necessary as she will understand the goal of going potty outside.
Establish a feeding schedule. This is essential to housetraining! Dogs do best when fed twice a day, breakfast and dinner.
Breakfast: Allow your dog to potty first thing in the morning. Don’t forget to give yourself some extra time in the morning as you’ll need to walk
your dog no later than 20 minutes after feeding. Of course 20 minutes is just a guideline. If your dog seems to be looking at the door sooner
or circling and sniffing, make sure to get her outdoors pronto.
Dinner: Allow your dog to potty as soon as you get home. Then follow the same routine as the morning by allowing your dog to potty no later
than 20 minutes after feeding.
Puppies
Patience and a good enzymatic cleaner are the keys to housetraining a puppy. Keep in mind puppies have tiny bladders and there will be
accidents. You’re going to minimize the damage through crate training and frequent potty breaks.
You should be taking your puppy out upon awakening, after each feeding, play session, training session, introduction to a new person or
animal – basically any time the puppy has been active or gets excited. These activities can stimulate the physical urge to go.
If your puppy starts sniffing and circling, this is a flashing red light indicating she has to potty. Take her out immediately! When she does
potty, tell her how wonderful she is. When you take her outside again, take her to the same spot where she eliminated previously. This will
indicate to her where the toilet is and she’ll be more likely to use it again. In time this will not be necessary.
Paper Training
Just say NO! Paper training makes your overall goal of housetraining more difficult. Paper training establishes the inside of the house as
the dog’s toilet which is the opposite of what you are trying to accomplish. Also puppies may assume going near the papers is as good as
going on the papers.
Accidents
It’s your fault not hers! If you are following these guidelines, you shouldn't encounter too many accidents in the house. If you do, take your
puppy out more often. If you catch your puppy in the act, say nothing. Simply move her outside to finish. When she is done, praise her for
going outside. Never, ever punish your puppy by rubbing her nose in it, smacking her with newspapers, yelling, or slapping her. Punishment
results in dogs that become fearful of and possibly aggressive towards humans.
Other Helpful Tips
Crate Training: Please refer to the crate training protocol. Crates can be invaluable when it comes to housetraining. Not only will your dog be
less likely to potty in her crate, if she does it’s easy cleanup for you. No worries about furniture or carpeting serving as your dog’s toilet. With
time your dog may graduate to a baby-gated area or even the entire house.
If your dog has an accident in the crate or house, don’t make a big deal about it. Dogs don’t go potty indoors because they are mad at us or
because they want revenge. They do it because they needed to go. Use a cleaner like Nature’s Miracle to break down the urine.
Keep in mind that changes to a dog’s food, health, routine or emotional state can cause lapses in housetraining. If your dog has regressed,
first consult your veterinarian to rule out any physical problems. If there are no health issues, you will need to do some sleuthing to figure out
an emotional cause (moving to a new home, adding a new pet or person.)
Speutering your Pit will benefit your housetraining efforts. Male dogs begin to lift their leg and “mark” between four and nine months of age.
Not only will they mark outdoors (trees, shrubs, telephone poles) but could also mark in your house (chairs, lamps, beds.) Having your dog
neutered goes a long way in avoiding this unwanted behavior. Also neutering and spaying helps to prevent urinary tract infections that could
lead to frequent urination and accidents.
| BAIT BAG |
| CLICKERS |
| SIDE RELEASE BUCKLE COLLARS |
| FLAT BUCKLE COLLARS |
| MARTINGALES |
| FRONT CLIP HARNESS |
| ROPE & NYLON LEADS |
| HEAD HALTER |
Everything you need to train and manage your dog!
Bait Bag - also known as a treat bag. You need to have your rewards handy.
Timing is very important in training, so having your treats easily accessible is
super important. For a cheap alternative, try a pocketed apron from Home Depot!
Treats - make sure you have food that your dog will really get excited about. Most
dogs won't work for just plain old kibble. We like hot dogs, cheese, and salmon.
Remember the 3 S's! Small, soft and smelly! The dog really shouldn't have to
chew it up. Think instant gratification. Also, don't work your dog on a full stomach.
They are likely to work harder for food if they are hungry.
Clicker - The clicker does just what it says - clicks! It is a great training tool
because it helps you send a clear message to your dog when they do the right
thing. We'll talk more about the clicker later. There are two basic types, the box
clickers and ergonomic clickers. As long as it clicks and you feel comfortable with
it, you'll be good to go.
Collars, collars, collars... not all created equally.
Side Release Buckle Collars - While they may be the easy to adjust and come in
lots of cute colors and patterns, we've seen them break too many times. The
snappy buckles come in plastic and metal, and though the metal is stronger and
more reliable than the plastic, we are still not big fans. They are great for fashion
and id tags, but unless your dog is a non-puller, we suggest that you rely on
something with a bit more strength.
Flat Buckle Collars - The old standby. A well made flat buckle collar will last
years. They come in nylon, leather and cotton. The only issue you may have is
getting a precise fit. If you own a leather or fabric punch you can put the holes
right where you need them. The fitting rule is that you should only be able to slide
two fingers under your dogs collar. Collars that are too loose are an accident
waiting to happen.
Martingales - Once used almost exclusively for sight hounds, the martingale has
become a favorite among many Pit owners. Martingales have two loops, one
large and one small. The smaller loop can be made from nylon or fabric or chain.
When engaged, the large loop closes for a snug fit. With proper fitting, a
martingale will never choke your dog, but will always prevent backing out or
escaping. We really love the fabric martingales because they are comfortably
loose when not in use and the are available in a variety of widths, colors and
patterns.
The Other Collars (Chokes, Shocks and Prongs) - We saved these for last
because there's nothing good to say about them. Relying on physical
punishment as a way to train your dog is just wrong. Positive reinforcement
training works for you and your dog. It strengthens communication and bonding
and it doesn't have the ugly side effects of punishment based methods.
Harnesses - It seems there's a new type of harness coming out every week.
From no pull to no jump, there's one that promises help for every issue. We're not
going to talk about the no jump harnesses because they are awful (enough
said?) Traditional harnesses that clip on the back actually encourage pulling, it is
said that it triggers their opposition reflex. But there is one type of harness that we
think is cat's meow (or the pittie's bark)...
Front Clip Harness - Probably the best thing to happen to dog walking in a very
long time. We've used these on countless dogs and they work nearly all the time.
Because the leash is attached at the chest, the rest is self correcting. Whenever
your dog puts tension on the leash, it redirects them back towards you. So
simple! We prefer the ones that don't have a slide feature on the front because it
seems to somewhat defeat the purpose. Because these harnesses are made
with plastic side release buckles, we sometime recommend using a collar and
coupler as a back up. Remember - this is a management tool. Once your dog
can walk without being a total idiot, work on teaching the heel command.
*Front clip harnesses will be available for sale on our sight soon!*
Head Halters - Some Pit parents swear by them. They are meant to help calm
reactive dogs by putting light pressure on calming points on the head. These are
not to be confused with a muzzle. The head halter will not prevent the dog from
drinking or eating when fitted properly. These can be a great management tool for
owners who have dogs that are highly reactive around other dogs. Because many
Pits have short snouts, we recommend coupling to a flat buckle or loop
martingale collar to prevent possible escape.
Leads - Chain leads are dangerous (try wrapping that baby around you or your
dog's leg.) Retractable leads are an amputation or loose dog waiting to happen.
That leaves nylon, leather and rope. We recommend double thick nylon or rope.
When we say rope we mean Ella's Leads. Notice we don't give many company
plugs here but we love Ella's! These leads are super strong and they come in
many varieties. They are available online at www.ellaslead.com
Bait Bag - also known as a treat bag. You need to have your rewards handy.
Timing is very important in training, so having your treats easily accessible is
super important. For a cheap alternative, try a pocketed apron from Home Depot!
Treats - make sure you have food that your dog will really get excited about. Most
dogs won't work for just plain old kibble. We like hot dogs, cheese, and salmon.
Remember the 3 S's! Small, soft and smelly! The dog really shouldn't have to
chew it up. Think instant gratification. Also, don't work your dog on a full stomach.
They are likely to work harder for food if they are hungry.
Clicker - The clicker does just what it says - clicks! It is a great training tool
because it helps you send a clear message to your dog when they do the right
thing. We'll talk more about the clicker later. There are two basic types, the box
clickers and ergonomic clickers. As long as it clicks and you feel comfortable with
it, you'll be good to go.
Collars, collars, collars... not all created equally.
Side Release Buckle Collars - While they may be the easy to adjust and come in
lots of cute colors and patterns, we've seen them break too many times. The
snappy buckles come in plastic and metal, and though the metal is stronger and
more reliable than the plastic, we are still not big fans. They are great for fashion
and id tags, but unless your dog is a non-puller, we suggest that you rely on
something with a bit more strength.
Flat Buckle Collars - The old standby. A well made flat buckle collar will last
years. They come in nylon, leather and cotton. The only issue you may have is
getting a precise fit. If you own a leather or fabric punch you can put the holes
right where you need them. The fitting rule is that you should only be able to slide
two fingers under your dogs collar. Collars that are too loose are an accident
waiting to happen.
Martingales - Once used almost exclusively for sight hounds, the martingale has
become a favorite among many Pit owners. Martingales have two loops, one
large and one small. The smaller loop can be made from nylon or fabric or chain.
When engaged, the large loop closes for a snug fit. With proper fitting, a
martingale will never choke your dog, but will always prevent backing out or
escaping. We really love the fabric martingales because they are comfortably
loose when not in use and the are available in a variety of widths, colors and
patterns.
The Other Collars (Chokes, Shocks and Prongs) - We saved these for last
because there's nothing good to say about them. Relying on physical
punishment as a way to train your dog is just wrong. Positive reinforcement
training works for you and your dog. It strengthens communication and bonding
and it doesn't have the ugly side effects of punishment based methods.
Harnesses - It seems there's a new type of harness coming out every week.
From no pull to no jump, there's one that promises help for every issue. We're not
going to talk about the no jump harnesses because they are awful (enough
said?) Traditional harnesses that clip on the back actually encourage pulling, it is
said that it triggers their opposition reflex. But there is one type of harness that we
think is cat's meow (or the pittie's bark)...
Front Clip Harness - Probably the best thing to happen to dog walking in a very
long time. We've used these on countless dogs and they work nearly all the time.
Because the leash is attached at the chest, the rest is self correcting. Whenever
your dog puts tension on the leash, it redirects them back towards you. So
simple! We prefer the ones that don't have a slide feature on the front because it
seems to somewhat defeat the purpose. Because these harnesses are made
with plastic side release buckles, we sometime recommend using a collar and
coupler as a back up. Remember - this is a management tool. Once your dog
can walk without being a total idiot, work on teaching the heel command.
*Front clip harnesses will be available for sale on our sight soon!*
Head Halters - Some Pit parents swear by them. They are meant to help calm
reactive dogs by putting light pressure on calming points on the head. These are
not to be confused with a muzzle. The head halter will not prevent the dog from
drinking or eating when fitted properly. These can be a great management tool for
owners who have dogs that are highly reactive around other dogs. Because many
Pits have short snouts, we recommend coupling to a flat buckle or loop
martingale collar to prevent possible escape.
Leads - Chain leads are dangerous (try wrapping that baby around you or your
dog's leg.) Retractable leads are an amputation or loose dog waiting to happen.
That leaves nylon, leather and rope. We recommend double thick nylon or rope.
When we say rope we mean Ella's Leads. Notice we don't give many company
plugs here but we love Ella's! These leads are super strong and they come in
many varieties. They are available online at www.ellaslead.com
